By Richard Thomas
Rating: B+
The latest batch of uncut, unfiltered, well-sourced and skillfully blended bourbon goodness from Barrell Craft Spirits in Batch 028. According to the fact sheet, this is a bourbon fashioned from 10 and 11 year old whiskeys sourced out of Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana. The latter two are usually attributed to Cascade Hollow (formerly known as George Dickel) in Tullahoma, Tennessee and MGP in Indiana; indeed, Barrell Craft Spirits used to acknowledge them by name or location in writing. Their Kentucky sourcing — assuming it is just one and not multiple distillers — has always been anyone’s guess.
This particular batch is different from the main current of past Barrell Bourbon offerings in the alcohol content. Batch 028 is a mere 108.86 proof, clocking in at the middle 50s percentile for ABV. So, while stronger than bonded whiskey (100 proof), it isn’t the over 120 proof that so many cask strength American whiskeys — including Barrell Bourbon batches — are. Those are so high octane that they certainly need added water to bring out the best in them, and are rarely cool enough to properly enjoy without water. But in the case of Batch 028, it’s debatable whether it needs added water, and I say that having tried it with a splash, without a splash and on the rocks.
The Bourbon
As I just mentioned, I tried this bourbon out three different ways over the course of a four hour evening, and still came away with the feeling that I hadn’t arrived on any personal preference for what works best. What I am describing here is with a few drops of water, and as a few drops implies, that is cutting the whiskey in a miserly fashion.
A pour from this bottle takes on a between copper and light amber. The scent presents notes of dried cherry and apricot, but this is half-smothered with chocolate and caramel, with a pretty sizable sliver of spicy oak. The palate is a light one, with the sweetness moving in that bourbonesque candy corn and vanilla direction, just retaining a toehold on that earliness fruitiness. Balancing this is a touch of a tannic bite. That fruity current fades away swiftly in the finish, leaving the tannic, spicy note to linger.
The Price
Barrel Bourbon 028is priced at $89.99 a bottle.